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Lhasa, the heart and soul of Tibet
and an object of devout pilgrimage, is still a city of wonders. The
Potala, a vast white and ochre fortress, dominates the Lhasa skyline.
Once the seat of Tibetan government and the location of the tombs
of previous Dalai Lamas, the Potala serves as a symbolic focus for
Tibetan aspirations. Today though, it is the Jokhang temple, 2km to
the east, which is the spiritual heart of the city. The medieval push
and shove of crowds, the street performers, the stalls hawking everything
from prayer flags to jewel-encrusted yak skulls, and the devout tapping
their foreheads to the ground at every step is an exotic brew that
few newcomers can resist. Among Tibet's other attractions are Shigatse,
around 250km south-west of Lhasa and the seat of the Panchen Lama
(the reincarnation of whom the Dalai Lama and the Chinese government
are currently disputing), and Mt Kailash, a beautiful range of peaks.
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Sakya is 152km west of Shigatse and
about 25km south of the main road. The huge brooding monastery here
was Tibet's most powerful 700 years ago. The monastery probably contains
the finest collection of Tibetan religious relics remaining in Tibet,
although the monks may restrict you to viewing only a couple of halls.
There's an unreliable bus from Shigatse, but most people arrange to
see Sakya on their way to the Nepali border or the Everest Base Camp.
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Mt
Everest
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The Tibetan approach to Mt Everest
or Qoomolangma (8848m) provides far better vistas of the world's
highest peak than those on the Nepal side. Some 27,000 sq km around
Everest's Tibetan face have been designated as the Qoomolangma
Nature Preserve, aiming to protect the environment and the cultural
traditions of the local people. For foreign travellers, the Everest
Base Camp has become the most popular trekking
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destination in Tibet, but this
does not mean that the region is exactly swarming with hikers.
The two access points are Shegar and Tingri, along the Friendship
Highway to Nepal, but be warned that neither trek is an easy three
or four-day stroll. Take your time getting acclimatised and be
prepared for a strenuous climb. If it all sounds too much, 4WD
vehicles can lurch all the way to base camp along the Shegar track. |
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Gyantse
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Gyantse, some 200km south-west
of Lhasa, is one of the least Chinese-influenced towns in Tibet
and is worth a visit for this reason alone. The Palkhor Monastery
here was built in 1427 and is notable for its superb Kumbum (10,000
images) stupa. The Dzong (old fort) which towers above the village
offers a fine view over the valley. Gyantse is a four hour bus
ride from Shigatse. |
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